Fender Serial Number Lookup

Table of Contents

Want to know how old your Fender guitar is? Just follow these simple steps:

STEP 1. Find The Serial Number

The first thing you need to do is find the serial number.

If you know the model of your instrument, select it from the list below and you will see the most common places to find the serial number on your guitar model:

• Stratocaster
• Telecaster
• Precision Bass
• Jazz Bass
• Jazzmaster
• Jaguar
• Mustang
• Acoustic Guitar

Not sure about the model?

No problem – most Fender serial numbers are found in the first few locations below. Check these spots in order:

1. Back of the headstock – that’s the #1 place for a ton of Fender guitars.
2. Front of the headstock – often near the Fender logo. If you see several numbers at once, look for the one that says DES; this is the serial number.
3. Neck plate – that’s the metal plate on the back of the guitar where the neck is screwed to the body (you’ll see 4 screws there). On many older Fenders the serial is stamped right on that plate.
4. Bridge plate – this is the metal base plate the bridge sits on, between pickup and saddle. On some guitars (especially certain Telecasters and a few basses) the serial can be stamped on that metal plate.
5. Tremolo cavity cover (vibrato back plate) – it’s the cover over the spring cavity on the back of the body (on early 50’s Stratocasters).
6. Base of the neck (the visible part at the neck joint) – that’s the spot where the neck meets the body (common on some Japan-made Fenders).

Still can’t find it?

Before going further, make sure the instrument is actually a Fender (not Squier, a parts build, or another brand with Fender-style design).

If the serial number still isn’t visible, you may need to remove the neck (or pickguard/control plate on some models) to inspect internal markings. On many guitars, especially vintage and reissues, you may find useful identification marks on the neck heel. There you can find the production date.

STEP 2. Identify The Serial Number

To identify your serial number, first try checking it with our Fender Serial Number Decoder. This lookup tool can help you find out not only the production date but also the place of manufacture of your instrument.

If the decoder does not give you a result, try searching manually in the serial number guide below.

Stratocaster Serial Number

Some common features for identifying Stratocaster serial numbers.

Location of Serial Numbers:

• Early 1954: Tremolo Cavity Cover.
• 1954-1976: Neck Plate.
• 1976-2000s: Front of Headstock.
• Since mid-1990s: Back of Headstock.
• 1980-2017: Neck Heel (most Japanese Stratocasters).

Prefix Significance:

• L: Indicates a specific production era (mid-60s to 1976).
• E: Represents the 1980s.
• N: Denotes the 1990s.
• NC: Squier Strat Bullets
• Z: Used in the 2000s.
• V: For ‘vintage’ reissues.
• S: Signifies the 1970s.
• US: American Standard Series.
• DZ, DN: American Deluxe Series.
• CA: Gold Stratocaster 1981, 1982 and 1983.
• CC: Walnut Stratocaster 1981, 1982 and 1983.
• G: Stratocaster from 1980, with gold hardware and two-position rotary tone switch.

Origin Indicators:

• Mexican-made: Prefix MN or MZ for 1990s and 2000s; MSZ for Ritchie Blackmore Stratocaster before  2010.
• Japanese-made: Prefix J or JV in early 1980s.

Other:

• 3 digits of 500: 35th Anniversary Strat from 1989-1990.

Telecaster Serial Number

The main features that allow you to determine the serial number of a Telecaster guitar.

For more details, see our Fender Telecaster serial number lookup guide.

Location of Serial Numbers:

• 1950-1954: Bridge Plate, between the pick-up and the saddles.
• 1954-1976: Neck Plate.
• 1976-2000s: Front of Headstock.
• 1980-2017: Neck Heel (Japan).
• Since 1980s: Bridge Plate (Vintage Reissues)
• Since mid-1990s: Back of Headstock.

Prefix Significance:

• L: Indicates a specific production era (mid-60s to 1976);
• CE: Black and Gold Telecaster from 1981-1982;
• XN: FSRs and ’52 Teles.

Origin Indicators:

• Mexican-made: Prefix MN or MZ for 1990s and 2000s; MSZ for Jim Root Telecaster, James Burton Standard Telecaster before  2010;
• Japanese-made: Prefix J or JV in early 1980s.

Other:

• 5 digits stamped on bridge plate: U.S. ’52 Vintage Telecaster since 1988;
• 4 digits stamped on bridge plate: U.S. ’52 Vintage Telecaster 1982-1988.

Precision Bass Serial Number

Common features that help identify Precision Bass serial numbers.

Serial Number Location:

• 1951-1955: Bridge Plate.
• 1954-1976: Neck Plate.
• 1976-2000s: Front of Headstock.
• 1980-2017: Neck Heel (Japan).
• Since mid-1990s: Back of Headstock.

Serial Format:

• Pre-1976: Comprised solely of numbers;
• Post-1976: Begins with a letter followed by numbers. The letter often indicates the decade (e.g., E for the 1980s, N for the 1990s).

Prefix Significance:

• CB, CE: Precision Bass Special from 1981;
• CD, CO, GO: Precision Bass Special (Walnut) from 1982.

Origin Indicators:

• United States-made: Prefix US;
• Mexican-made: Prefix MX; MSZ – Duff McKagan P-Bass before  2010.

Jazz Bass Serial Number

Key features to look for a Jazz Bass serial number.

Serial Number Location:

• 1960 – mid-1976: Neck Plate (4-5 digits early ’60s; L-series; later ‘big F’ plate).
• Mid-1976 – 2000s: Front of Headstock.
• Since mid-2000s: Back of headstock.
• 1982-2017 (Japan): Back of the neck near the neck joint.
• Since 1982 (Vintage Reissue/American Vintage): Neck Plate (often V-prefix).

Prefix Significance:

• L (+ 5 digits): Indicates a specific production era (mid-60s to 1976);
• V: Vintage Reissue/American Vintage family;
• N: 1990s decade letter.
• Z: 2000s decade letter.
• US: American Standard Series.
• D (+ 6 digits): Jazz Bass from 1982.
• CB (+ 5 digits): Gold Jazz Bass from 1982.

Origin Indicators:

• Mexico (MIM): Prefix MN = 1990s, MZ = 2000s, MX = 2010s.
• Japan (MIJ/CIJ): common prefixes include JV, SQ, E; serial is often on the back of the neck near the neck joint, sometimes on the headstock decal or neck plate depending on reissue.

Production:

• USA: Introduced in 1960 and produced in the United States.
  Note: U.S. production was interrupted for much of 1985 during the move from Fullerton to Corona.
• Japan: Fender expanded with Japan-made Fender instruments in 1982.
• Mexico: Fender instruments began coming off the line in Ensenada around 1990, and the Standard Jazz Bass appears among the first Mexico-made Standard line.

Jazzmaster Serial Number

Special features for finding the Jazzmaster serial number.

Location of Serial Numbers:

• 1958 – early 1977: Neck Plate.
• Late 1976 – 1980: Front of Headstock.
• 1986 – 2015 (Japan): Neck Heel (near the neck joint).
• Mid-1990s (USA/Mex production, post-2015 Japan): Back of Headstock.
• 1999-2012 (USA AVRI ’62 Jazzmaster reissue): Neck plate (often seen with V serials on the plate).

Prefix Significance:

• 0 or ‘–‘ prefix before the digits: Sometimes seen on late-1957/1958 neck-plate serials (relevant for very early Jazzmasters).
• L: 1963-1965 neck-plate era.
• V: Vintage Reissue.
• LE (+ 6 digits): Blonde Jazzmaster with gold hardware, made in 1994 as a promotional set.

Origin Indicators:

• Mexico (MIM): Prefix MZ (2000s), MX (2010s+).
• Japan (MIJ/CIJ): serial often back of neck near neck joint; some reissues put it in the headstock decal or on the neck plate.
• USA: Prefix US (Since 2010s).

Production:

• USA: 1958 – September 1980 (discontinued in 1980).
• Japan (reissues): Fender reintroduced the Jazzmaster in 1986 as a vintage-style ’62 reissue.
• USA (reissues): American Vintage Reissue ’62 Jazzmaster was introduced in 1999 (and ran until 2012).
• Mexico: Classic Player Jazzmaster introduced May 2008 (MIM).

Jaguar Serial Number

Specific signs for finding a Jaguar serial number.

Location of Serial Numbers:

• 1962 – 1975: Neck Plate (classic/vintage Jaguars).
• Mid-1980 – 2015 (Japan): Neck Heel.
• Since 1999 (Reissue): Neck Plate (V-prefix).
• Since mid-2000s: Back of Headstock.

Prefix Significance:

• V: Vintage Reissue/American Vintage; not strictly year-coded.
• LE (+ 6 digits): Blonde Jaguar with gold hardware (1994 promo set).

Origin Indicators:

• Mexico (MIM): Prefix MZ (2000s), MX (2010s+).
• Japan (MIJ/CIJ): many reissue Jaguars show the serial on the back of the neck under the MIJ/CIJ marking, or in/near the headstock decal depending on the run.

Mustang Serial Number

A few tips for finding your Mustang serial number.

Location of Serial Numbers:

• 1964-1977: Neck Plate.
• 1977-1982: Front of Headstock.
• 1990-2016 (Japan Reissues): Neck Heel.
• Since 2010s: Back of Headstock.

Prefix Significance:

• 76 (+ 5 digits): headstock serials used around 1976/early 1977 (transition period).
• S (+ 6 digits): 1977-1981 style (S = Seventies; first digit after S indicates the year).
• E (+ 6 digits): late 1970s/early 1980s style (E = Eighties; first digit after E indicates the year).
• V (+ 4-6 digits): Vintage Reissue serial style (not strictly year-coded).

Origin Indicators:

• Mexican-made: serial typically starts with M.
• Japan (MIJ/CIJ): serial is often on the back of the neck heel (older Japan format), with JD- moving to the back of headstock in the newer era.

Production:

• USA (original run): 1964-1982 (discontinued in 1982).
• Japan (Reissues): since 1990 (Mustang became Fender’s first reissued ‘floating-bridge’ model).

Fender Acoustic Serial Number

For more details, see the article Fender Acoustic Serial Number.

Where to find the serial number on a Fender acoustic guitar:

• Neck Plate: U.S.-made bolt-on flat-tops, 1964-1971;
  Models: King/Kingman, Concert, Classic, Malibu, Newporter, Shenandoah, Villager, Wildwood, Palomino, Redondo.
• Inside the Soundhole on the Label (often shows model + serial) since 1970s;
• Stamped on the Neck Block – look for the serial inside the soundhole, facing the neck.

Important note: Serial numbers/codes may be listed slightly out of order, so the year of manufacture should be considered approximate unless you confirm it with other data.

If a serial number is present, it typically has a letter prefix followed by several digits.

The first digits often indicate the production year:

• Most commonly, the first 2 digits = year (within the 2000s/2010s/2020s).
• In some older formats, the first 1 digit = year (typically within the 1990s).

Examples (2 digits = year):

• US-14xxxxx – 2014
• ICF-12xxxxx – 2012

Examples (1 digit = year):

• CN-5xxxxx – 1995
• VN-7xxxxx – 1997

But this only applies to guitars made after the 1980s. Records for Fender acoustic guitars from the early 1960s through the 1980s are incomplete, so serial numbers are often insufficient to accurately date an instrument.

Use the model name, construction details and catalogs to understand the time period the guitar was made.

DG Series: Import acoustics (China/Indonesia/Korea), mostly mid-late 1990s. Models start with DG prefix.

Spring Hill Series: Handmade acoustics built in Spring Hill, Tennessee (mid-1990s). Model prefixes are LS and SB.

AG Series: Import acoustics from Korea (mid-1990s). Model prefix start with AG (AG10-AG25).

SX/CX Series: Import acoustics from Korea (early-mid 1990s). Model suffixes include SX (steel-string), SXE, and CX (classical).

Gemini Series: Import acoustics from Korea, distributed in the U.S. by Midco (mid-1980s into 1990). Includes Gemini I-IV and IIE.

California Series: Import acoustics: Japan in the early 1980s, then Korea in the mid-1980s onward. Includes models like Malibu, Newporter, Redondo.

Standard Series: Import acoustics distributed in the U.S. by Midico (1980s). Includes models like F200/F210 and FC classical variants.

F Series: Acoustic guitars imported from Asia (late 1960s through the 1980s).

Early US-Made Acoustic Guitars: Instruments with laminated construction, bolt-on necks, through-body tension rods, and Strat-style headstocks (1960s-early 1970s).

Tarrega Acoustic Guitars: Made in Sweden and distributed by Fender in the late 1960s; laminated construction.

Regal Acoustic Guitars: Distributed by Fender in the late 1960s; laminate construction.

Fender Serial Number Mexico

Mexican Fender serial numbers are usually easy to read. Most Made in Mexico guitars and basses start with “M.” In the 1990s, the usual prefix is MN. In the 2000s, it changes to MZ. Since 2010, the prefix is MX plus two digits for the year.

Most Mexican serial numbers are found on the headstock. Older serial numbers are often on the front of the headstock. Newer ones are on the back of the headstock.

Do not treat the serial number as an exact final date. Mexican Fender serials often overlap from one year to the next. A neck can be numbered late in one year and then used on a guitar that was finished in the next one. So the serial is best used as a date range first. Then you confirm it with the model, specs, and hardware.

Fender MN Serial Number

The first regular Mexican Fender production starts in 1990. These serials use MN. The M stands for Mexico. The N marks the 1990s. The number after MN shows the year within the decade.

Use this chart for the 1990s Mexican Fender serials.

Prefix	Digits	Years
MN0	5 or 6 digits	1990 to 1991
MN1	5 or 6 digits	1991 to 1992
MN2	5 or 6 digits	1992 to 1993
MN3	5 or 6 digits	1993 to 1994
MN4	5 or 6 digits	1994 to 1995
MN5	5 or 6 digits	1995 to 1996
MN6	5 or 6 digits	1996 to 1997
MN7	5 or 6 digits	1997 to 1998
MN8	5 or 6 digits	1998 to 1999
MN9	5 or 6 digits	1999 to 2000

Fender MZ Serial Number

In the 2000s, the system stays almost the same. The main change is that MN becomes MZ. The number after MZ still shows the year within the decade. This is the main format used on most Mexican Fenders from 2000 through 2009.

Use this chart for the 2000s Mexican Fender serials.

Prefix	Digits	Years
MZ0	5 or 6 digits	2000 to 2001
MZ1	5 or 6 digits	2001 to 2002
MZ2	5 or 6 digits	2002 to 2003
MZ3	5 or 6 digits	2003 to 2004
MZ4	5 or 6 digits	2004 to 2005
MZ5	5 or 6 digits	2005 to 2006
MZ6	5 or 6 digits	2006 to 2007
MZ7	5 or 6 digits	2007 to 2008
MZ8	5 or 6 digits	2008 to 2009
MZ9	5 or 6 digits	2009 to 2010

There is one short transition period that confuses a lot of owners. Some guitars from late 2009 to early March 2010 use a plain 10 prefix plus 7 digits format. This format was only used for a short time. It is important because the country of origin is not built into the serial itself. On these guitars, you need to check the Made in Mexico decal near the serial. This format can also be harder to find in online databases.

Fender MX Serial Number

After that short transition, Fender moved to the MX system (MX10 means 2010). The last six digits are only a unit identifier. They do not give extra dating details, and they are not a production sequence you can decode. The same pattern continues on later MX serials.

Use this chart for Mexican Fender serials from 2010 to present.

Prefix	Digits	Years
MX10	6 digits	2010 to 2011
MX11	6 digits	2011 to 2012
MX12	6 digits	2012 to 2013
MX13	6 digits	2013 to 2014
MX14	6 digits	2014 to 2015
MX15	6 digits	2015 to 2016
MX16	6 digits	2016 to 2017
MX17	6 digits	2017 to 2018
MX18	6 digits	2018 to 2019
MX19	6 digits	2019 to 2020
MX20	6 digits	2020 to 2021
MX21	6 digits	2021 to 2022
MX22	6 digits	2022 to 2023
MX23	6 digits	2023 to 2024
MX24	6 digits	2024 to 2025
MX25	6 digits	2025 to 2026

Fender MSN, MSZ and AMXN Serial Number

However, not all Mexican Fender guitars follow this serial number system. There are exceptions. A few artist models use MSN or MSZ instead of the standard pattern. Some artist models then moved to the regular MX system in 2010.

Known examples include:

• Jim Root Telecaster
• James Burton Standard Telecaster
• Buddy Guy Stratocaster
• Robert Cray Stratocaster
• Jimmie Vaughan Stratocaster
• Ritchie Blackmore Stratocaster
• Duff McKagan P Bass

There is also the California Series. These guitars and basses from 1997 and 1998 use AMXN plus 6 digits.

A few models also used MX before the 2010 switch. Known examples include the Reggie Hamilton Jazz Bass and the Frank Bello Jazz Bass. So if a Mexican Fender does not fit the main chart, always check the exact model before making a final call.

Fender Serial Number Japan

Japanese Fender serial numbers are a little harder than Mexican ones. On Japan made Fenders, the prefix alone is not enough. You also need to check the decal. A prefix like “A” or “T” can belong to different periods depending on whether the guitar says Made in Japan or Crafted in Japan.

Fender Made in Japan Serial Number (1982 to 1997)

Most Japanese Fender serial numbers are found on the back of the neck near the neck joint. Some reissue models place the serial on the headstock or on the neck plate instead.

Japanese Fender serial numbers should be used as a guide, not as final proof. These serials overlap more than U.S. or Mexican ones. Some prefixes were reused in later years. Some transition years also used two decal styles at the same time. That is why the decal, model, and specs matter just as much as the prefix itself.

Most of guitars from 1982 to 1997 say Made in Japan above or near the serial number. These early Japanese Fender guitars usually have prefix JV or SQ at the start of the serial number. After that, Fender kept using other letter prefixes through the rest of the 1980s and into the mid-1990s.

Use this chart to determine the year of production of Fender Made in Japan guitars from 1982 to 1997.

Prefix	Digits	Years
JV	5 digits	1982 to 1984
SQ	5 digits	1983 to 1984
E	6 digits	1984 to 1987
A	6 digits	1985 to 1986
B	6 digits	1985 to 1986
C	6 digits	1985 to 1986
F	6 digits	1986 to 1987
G	6 digits	1987 to 1988
H	6 digits	1988 to 1989
I	6 digits	1989 to 1990
J	6 digits	1989 to 1990
K	6 digits	1990 to 1991
L	6 digits	1991 to 1992
M	6 digits	1992 to 1993
N	6 digits	1993 to 1994
O	6 digits	1993 to 1994
P	6 digits	1993 to 1994
Q	6 digits	1993 to 1994
S	6 digits	1994 to 1995
T	6 digits	1994 to 1995
U	6 digits	1995 to 1996
N	5 digits	1995 to 1996
V	6 digits	1996 to 1997

Fender Crafted in Japan Serial Number (1997-2008)

In 1997, Fender Japan changed the decal from Made in Japan to Crafted in Japan. This is not just a cosmetic detail. It changes how you read the serial. For example, A with a Made in Japan decal points to the mid-1980s, but A with a Crafted in Japan decal points to the late 1990s.

Use this chart to determine the year of production of Fender Crafted in Japan guitars from 1997 to 2008.

Prefix	Digits	Years
A	6 digits	1997 to 1998
O	6 digits	1997 to 2000
P	6 digits	1999 to 2002
Q	6 digits	2002 to 2004
R	6 digits	2004 to 2005
S	6 digits	2006 to 2008
T	6 digits	2007 to 2008

This period creates one common problem. Some prefixes from the older Made in Japan chart show up again here. That means you always need both pieces of information together. Prefix plus decal.

Return to MIJ Serial Number From 2007 To 2011

In 2007, Fender Japan switched back to the Made in Japan decal. It wasn’t a sudden transition. Both Made in Japan and Crafted in Japan decals appear on guitars from 2007 and 2008. That overlap matters, especially with “T” serial numbers.

Prefix	Digits	Years
T	6 digits	2007 to 2010
U	6 digits	2010 to 2011

There is also an important exception here. A small group of Japan made models kept the T prefix into 2011 instead of switching fully to U.

Known examples include:

• Geddy Lee Jazz Bass
• Marcus Miller Jazz Bass
• Pawn Shop Fender 51
• Pawn Shop Fender 72
• Pawn Shop Mustang Special
• 70s Precision Bass
• Jaguar Bass

If you have one of those models, do not assume every T serial stops at 2010.

Fender JD Serial Number Since 2012

In 2012, Fender Japan moved to the JD format. This is the easiest Japanese system to read. The serial starts with JD and the first two digits after the prefix show the year.

There is one transition note to keep in mind. Some guitars built in 2012 still use the older U serial instead of JD. So if your Japanese Fender looks like a 2012 model but the serial starts with U, that can still be correct.

STEP 3. Verify The Information

Well, hopefully you’ve found the date and place of manufacture for your Fender guitar. But this is just the beginning. Even if a decoder or serial number guide gives one clear result, consider it as a starting point, not a final verdict.

Fender serial numbers can be consistent across years of production, some batches use special formats, and parts are replaced over the decades. Determining the production date and authenticity of a Fender is always a process of cross-checking. Don’t jump to conclusions – especially if the guitar is vintage or expensive.

Once you have a likely year and country from the serial:

1) Confirm the model and its identity.

First, determine the exact model name and series (Standard, Deluxe, American Professional, AVRI, Custom Shop, etc.). Then, check the catalogs, price lists, and official specs for that period to confirm the model was actually offered.

2) Check the hardware and specs against the era.

Serial numbers should match the instrument’s physical story. Confirm the finish options, pickup configuration, hardware color, and any signature features. If the serial says 1996 but the finish or pickup set didn’t exist until 1999, that’s a red flag.

Compare the expected specs for that year to what you see:

• Pickups and electronics: pickup type, wiring style, number of controls/switches, pot codes (especially useful on older instruments), shielding, PCB vs. hand wiring.
• Hardware: bridge type, saddle style, tuner style, string tree, neck plate style, tremolo system, strap buttons.
• Neck details: headstock shape, logo style, truss-rod access location, fingerboard radius, fret size.
• Body details: routes under the pickguard, neck pocket stamps, body contours, serial placement style for that era.

A correct serial with incorrect era clues can mean a parts guitar, a heavily modified instrument, or a misread serial format.

Many real Fenders have been changed over time. Pickup swaps, refrets, replaced tuners/bridges, refinishes, changed pickguards, or neck swaps are all common. Modifications don’t automatically mean the guitar is fake – but they do mean the serial alone won’t tell the full story.

3) Look for factory/date codes.

Depending on the period and model, Fender instruments may carry additional indications that help confirm (or refute) the serial result:

• Neck heel and neck pocket stamps, date penciling (on many older instruments);
• Potentiometer codes (often one of the most reliable indicators for older electrics);
• Pickup dates or inspection stamps;

These don’t exist on every guitar, but when they do, they’re extremely useful for verification.

4) Get expert help for high-value instruments.

If you’re dealing with a vintage Fender guitar from before the CBS era, a rare Custom Shop model, or any collectible, consult with experts, luthiers, or recognized Fender enthusiast communities.

Expert eyes can spot era inconsistencies instantly (decals, screws, routing patterns, font shapes, tool marks).

5) Contact Fender support.

Fender’s official support can sometimes confirm details if the instrument is in their system or if you provide enough information (serial, model, photos). Even if they can’t fully authenticate every older instrument, they may still help clarify manufacturing details.

FAQ